Burdwan Cluster: Hub of Sarees

Introduction Burdwan holds an important and considerable position in the handloom industry in West Bengal. Though this district is well-off with natural resources, a significant figure of people under rural sector preserves their living from this cluster heritage through conventional skills of handloom weaving. There are about 94000 weavers at Burdwan cluster either on a full-time or part-time work basis. Apart from this, there are extraordinary designers, dyers, card makers, traders and supplementary support providers. Approximately, 60% of weaver force is from the neighboring villages of the cluster while 40% weavers are from outside the West Bengal especially from North Bengal District. Jamdani and Tangail sarees with special varieties like Naksa par, Butik etc cotton Baluchari, Silk/ cotton Baluchari saree which has been described as one of the most extremely valued products of Indian Textiles tradition. This cluster is an established producer of this type of heritage handloom products in West Bengal. Due to its uniqueness and craftsmanship it is beyond the affluence for competition with power loomed sarees. Different varieties of sarees produced in this cluster are very much popular and well accepted for its accomplished craftsmanship and elitism. In this cluster, funds are provided under Handloom Export Schemes. Out of nine, six of the societies have started exporting their products after receiving I.E.C. no. and rest no. of PWCS are in process to get the number. At least 180 weavers, covering 15 PWCS are busy in production of exportable fabrics. Fibre2fashion.com had an elite discussion with Mr. S. Badhopadhyaya, Cluster Development Executive of Burdwan Cluster. In this conversation he highlighted about the initiatives taken by the Government for the development of the cluster: Government has facilitated collectivization of individual weavers by forming Self Help Groups (SHG), ensures support linkages of SHGs with Weavers Service Centre, National Institute of Fashion Technology, State Apex, Textile Committee and NHDC for skill up-gradation, marketing, design development and procurement of yarn. It provides format credit linkages through financial institutions like co-operatives/ commercial banks for SHGs, and encourages convergence of the schematic assistance from various schemes of State /Central Govt. for the weavers of this cluster to optimize resource utilization. Features These are some features of the cluster that have been brought out in light: Around 75 to 150 designs are made per annum. Designers have their own clients, mostly. Out of all designs only 60% get sold off. The designers get cash payment against production of design as well as graph work. Most of the designers produce the design for jacquard woven sarees. Some designers are trained at WSC, NIFT, and Kolkata Maximum designers have hardly seen a design workshop/exhibition/ design samples of different states. Annual income of a designer on an average may be anything between Rs. 28000/- to 40000/-. Mr. S. Bandhopadhyaya in his interaction with us told about the facilities provided to the weavers. He said: 150 Self Help Groups formed covering 2046 weavers and an amount of 60.66 Lacs loan have been sanctioned to them from District Lead Bank for financial support. Marketing channel developed with big houses like State Apex, Handloom House, CCIC, apart from direct participation in different Exhibitions and Expos being organized all over India for retail sales of exclusive products of clusters. An amount of ` 307.57 Lacs retail sales have been generated during last four years. To strengthen Industrial association & build the capacity between weavers, seven consortium/association covering 2954 weavers have been formed and all are registered under different Act in West Bengal. Need based design with value addition, developed for cluster through qualified designer appointed for cluster.